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Firing Pink Colors for Cloisonne

  • Member
    December 24, 2015

    I'm having a very hard time firing pink colors when I do cloisonne pieces. The pinks often turn orange. I've used Ninomiya L94 (raspberry), G703A, N14,  SL5, and a Thompson leaded color called Tea rose. I can get a pink initially but in the final firings required to fill the cells, the pink turns orange even if I fire a a low temperature (approximately 1300 degrees F). Any suggestions?? 

  • Leader
    January 1, 2016

    Sorry Jean, I have not gotten back to you - its been hectic over the holidays - I am going to ask a few more experts to get an answer for you - how many layers are you putting down? are you using clear flux underneath? are you using Fine Silver or Sterling Silver?

  • Member
    January 2, 2016

    I use Soyer #3 or Ninomiya #3 clear flux, sometimes several layers to insulate the pinks from the silver base. It's done on fine silver. Just lately I've found that if I lay down all the other colors first and then fire the pinks, it works better as I'm minimizing the number of times I need to fire the pink. The G703A and SL5 work pretty well that way, but the other colors are still turning orange.

  • Leader
    January 3, 2016

    I don't know who your supplier is for the Japanese enamels - I am assuming its Coral Shaffer from Enamelwork Supply Co.

    I would definitely call her - perhaps you have a bad batch? Sounds like you are doing all the right things.



  • Member
    January 4, 2016

    I've talked to Coral, she suggested using the Ninomiya N4 finishing flux, which is less hard than the Soyer 518 that I was using. She also said that everyone has difficulties with the reds and pinks.