I use to struggle so much with cutting the back of the rivet just right, until I took a workshop with Robert Dancik - his secret for a perfect fit rivet was a "playing card" -
Place a playing card on the front and back of the piece - push the wire thru
I use to struggle so much with cutting the back of the rivet just right, until I took a workshop with Robert Dancik - his secret for a perfect fit rivet was a "playing card" -
Place a playing card on the front and back of the piece - push the wire thru the hole of the metal and the hole in the playing card - set the entire piece down on a workbench and snip the top of the wire to the level of the playing card - you now have a perfect measurement on both sides - Remove the top playing card but leave one playing card on bottom side of the wire while you hammer the top - then flip it over - remove the playing card and hammer the bottom -
I have never riveted a piece after being enameled - I don't have your flare for the dare! I think I would do a lot of head banging once the enamel cracked - but I think I will follow your lead and experiment with a few from my trash heap!
Trish: The pendants were all riveted with 16 gauge fine silver wire, with the exception of the swirl patterned pendant. That one was bezel set with 1mmx2mm rectangular sterling silver wire on a copper back plate.
Trish: The pendants were all riveted with 16 gauge fine silver wire, with the exception of the swirl patterned pendant. That one was bezel set with 1mmx2mm rectangular sterling silver wire on a copper back plate.
To make the rivets, I take a length of 16 gauge wire and ball the end up in a torch. The holes need to be pre-drilled before enameling. Use a drill and tap gauge to determine the size of the drill bit that the 16 gauge wire will just pass through. When enameling, make sure to keep your holes clean, or you'll need to use a diamond tipped bead reamer to clean them out. Once the rivet is balled, I put it through the enameled piece and its backing and cut it. The amount of the rivet that you leave is determined by the thickness of the wire. I'm not sure about this, but I think it's half the thickness. Check on You Tube with Nancy L T Hamilton. She has some great riveting tutorials. I do it so infrequently that I have to check each time. Once the whole thing is together, I put the whole sandwiched collection on a block of wood that has a small indent carved into it the size of the the rivet ball. I use a rivet hammer and/or the round head of a chasing hammer to gently flatten the end of the wire that comes through the back plate. It takes a bit of time and practice to get it just right. You want it tight, but not so tight that you crack the enamel. I've cracked the enamel a time or two and had to start all over again. I hope this helps.
Carol: I would definitely take a workshop or two. I have taken two soldering workshops and still feel that my soldering skills are weak. A bezel setting workshop would be ideal because you get to build on your soldering skills and learn how to measure a bezel correctly and then set the piece. You can tackle these things on their own. I have watched many videos, purchased a few and taken a class or two on Craftcast. I wish you well. The riveting has been the easiest setting, despite my tentativeness about hammering on a piece of glass. The main thing is getting the back of the rivet that faces ones clothing nice and smooth. If you dent up the metal plate, you can always sand it.
Thanks Tammi for your compliment!! I absolutely love your pendants and brooch - the metal work is wonderful, so clean and understated. I have no experience with metals / metal smithing. I want to learn some basics so that I can finish my enamel
Thanks Tammi for your compliment!! I absolutely love your pendants and brooch - the metal work is wonderful, so clean and understated. I have no experience with metals / metal smithing. I want to learn some basics so that I can finish my enamel pieces. Can you suggest, do I need to find a class/workshop? Is this something I can tackle on my own?? Thanks again Tammi.
I use to struggle so much with cutting the back of the rivet just right, until I took a workshop with Robert Dancik - his secret for a perfect fit rivet was a "playing card" -
Place a playing card on the front and back of the piece - push the wire thru
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Trish: The pendants were all riveted with 16 gauge fine silver wire, with the exception of the swirl patterned pendant. That one was bezel set with 1mmx2mm rectangular sterling silver wire on a copper back plate.
To make the rivets, I take a length
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Very nice pieces - I love your metalsmith techniques - are the balls riveted on the back and if so how was that accomplished
December 13, 2013- -
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Thanks Tammi for your compliment!! I absolutely love your pendants and brooch - the metal work is wonderful, so clean and understated. I have no experience with metals / metal smithing. I want to learn some basics so that I can finish my enamel
... moreDecember 13, 2013- -
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Report