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Usually Karen when flakes come off, there isn't any counter on the back, or not enough - if that is not the case for you, then I would work back in my thinking and consider the metal being oily or dirty - since the enamel is flaking off and discoloring- I would think the metal must be the issue when it goes through the heating process - the klyr fire is an organic binder so I can't see that being an issue.
I would scrub the heck out of the metal, use minimal klyr fire, and thin layers of enamel on a sample - and test again - Also, if you haven't already, I would wash the opaques also- if all this fails - then it has to be the enamel and i would call Tom Ellis at Thompson.
This is my first big commission and it's been harrowing. I've never made a belt buckle and this has been so problematic! I thought the enamel was stable. Where it keeps flaking of is in the blue field to the left of the stag. It doesn't chip all the way to the metal, but, flakes off in layers. The client wore it while he was ironworking:-p and I'm repairing it. I'm paranoid about refiring it in small layers because of the reds and the floating cloisonne wires. Could it be that i'm not cleaning it well enough and repairing in too thick of layers? How many firings will ruin the reds?
First tell me, is this saw and solder Champleve? or cloisonné? or what? how is the stag attached?
This is saw and solder Champleve. I got the gauges wrong, it's actually 18 gauge back and 20 gauge overlay. The stage is 20 gauge that is the third layer, soldered on top of the Champleve. The lines and fire are round cloisonne wire dropped in. I've made so many mistakes. Read somewhere that someone had no problem using hard solder and so I did. Won't do that again. Am using IT on the buckle he wants for his daughter. So far haven't melted anything down... Whew! It's an expensive amount of silver. Have also got his daughters buckle in 16 gauge back, 20 gauge overlay. Do you think the stage is adding too many factors to the game? This is a design based on their family's Scottish heraldry.
Hi Karen,
I have always used Hard solder - but my last piece out, it took me 3 tries to finally get the third piece soldered down and that was after I changed to another brand of hard solder!!!Talk about silver going into the garbage heep - but my son reminded me that it can always be remelted down and you can get most of your money back from the refinery. So I, stopped cursing and started again.
I have contacted the Master of Saw and Solder, Kristin Anderson, who is one of our members on GOG. I sent her a personal email and asked her to look at your blog, and read all the questions and answers to try to help you out. I always use 18g. back and 22 gauge top!! - 16 g. seems awfully thick !!! Lets wait and see what Karen says-
Hang in there.
Gosh thank you! The IT is hair raising to use, especially when I have fine cut details on the fron and am trying to solder the findings on the back. Who do you use for a refinery?
If the enamel chips within the enamel layer, it is usually under tension. This can have the following causes.
a) the ratio front- and rear enamel is unfavorable. Front and counter-enamel should be about of the same thickness.
b) it has been used in one layer, enamels of different coefficient of expansion.
c) the work piece was cooled down too quickly or received during cooling cold drafts.
d) the enamel layer is too thick.
e) after enamelling the workpiece was unbalanced heated up again. For example by a new soldering. This results in general tension within the enamel layers.
That's all I can think of.
Thanks for your thoughts Edmund. I'm going to try to repair in smaller layers. I was hesitant to do too many firings because of the loss of brilliance to the reds. The piece is champleve on 18 gauge so there is no counter enamel. The stresses to the buckle could be part of the problem. Perhaps the field of enamel is too large? The buckle is approximately 2 3/4 inches or 6.9c x 3inches or 7.6c.
Hi Karen,
I use a refinery in New York City - but there are many metals companies that you can mail in your leftovers - Rio Grande, Hoover and Strong, and I believe Hauser and Miller. I think I have a few names listed in the "Links Tab" on the Main Page.
Thank you Trish. I've been using Hauser Miller and they return 85% value for bench scraps. Think that's better than Rio and haven't researched the others.
ooh, thanks for the heads up on Hauser & Miller - I have not sent anything via mail yet - I was holding out to do so, after asking other folks who they think gives the best return. I think I will post that question.
Trish is right on the money! This happens to me occasionally if my enamel layers are too thick, if the enamel is over a copper or brass rivet, if my counter enamel is spotty, or if the piece cools too fast especially on rings or bangles.