Hallo Mary Rose,

why do you make the bezel from 20 Gauge thick sheet? Normally a strength of 32 Gauge  is sufficient. It is no problem to press  such bezel over the enamel.

I know, this didn't answer your question. But I think it is nearly impossible to press a 20 Gauge bezel over the enamel without damage the enamel.

Edmund

I actually like the look of a heavy bezel. One thing you can do to still achieve the heavy look, but make setting the bezel much easier is to use a file to chamfer the edge. you angle the very top of the bezel and then you are actually moving MUCH less metal but it still looks very thick. I don't normally use anything less than 26 gauge for a bezel - but as mentioned, you can go much thinner. Once it is 'set' it will hold - it just depends on the aesthetic you are going for.

GOOD LUCK!

Marian Brown enamelist from Palm Desert Ca. USA taught me to make the bezel first. It is easier to fit, you don't break the enamel setting it and you can always grind your enamel to fit when it expands after multiple firings. I don't always have that forsight, but I ought to. It would prevent cracking. Also use 22k fine gold for the bezel. You can roll it over with a finger nail. Look at Mary- Lee Rae's invaluable website and blog for those instructions. I think heavier bezels look good too.

Sandra, I looked all through Mary-Lee's website and didn't find the heavy bezel instructions. Can you point me there with a link? Many thanks.

She doesn't use a heavy bezel, but her instructions still apply..Sorry she took it down apparently. Use a bezel of 22k gold. It will fold over easily with out hurting your cloisonne. Thickness is not an issue. Softness is. Order your bezel wire dead soft and good luck!

Many thanks, Sandra. Good to know I didn't overlook the instructions!

I do not know if I understood the question correctly! Would you like to get a higher bezel so that the workpiece looks thicker, or do you want that the bezel looks wider?

If the first is true, you can a fine-silver-band of 0,25 mm ( 0.01 inch, 30 Ga) thickness solder as usual onto the bottom plate. Then you can either insert an inlay of a thicker round, flat or square wire, so that the wire touches all around the inside of the bezel.

But you can also from an appropriately thick lightweight metal, such as aluminum sheet, saw out an inlay and insert it. Both inlays must not be soldered in. Unfortunately I don’t have an example picture.

If the bezel should be wider, you must solder the frame before enamelling onto the base plate. Bezel wire thicker than about 0.25 mm can hardly be pressed on an enameled plate. It must with a small hammer be pushed over the enamel plate. And then the enamel gets very easily damaged.

The second possibility is soldering a broader frame onto a ground plate. After finishing the enamel-work, glue the plate into this frame.

Edmund

Thanks Maslow, great illustration. It give exactly how to do it.

Another possibility for having the thick bezel look but not the risk is to make a frame on the front of the piece slightly smaller than the edge of the enamelled piece and put a thin bezel or cut tabs into the back. Put the enameled piece in from the back and put a flat sheet behind it and fold over the tabs or push down the bezel. Tabs would work better though and cam be beautiful if the are made to be a part of the design.

Hello, I would like information on making bezels for enamels that are about 20 gauge metal.  How can you protect the enamel as you are turning the metal over the bezel? 

Thank you,

Mary Rose