Good question!
For those of you who are not familiar with "Reticulated Silver" click on Hauser and Miller link below:http://www.hauserandmiller.com/fab/reticulation.html
I waited a while because I thought, an expert would answer your question.
I have never reticulated Sterling silver enamelled. But the enamelling technique is the same, as if you a smoth Sterling-silver surface enamel.
At first you have the "depletion gilding technique" using, to get a thin fine-silver surface. To polishing the uneven reticulated surface, use a flex-shaft with a not to hard wire-brush. The wires of the brush should be so fine as possible. So you get a nice shiny surface which then get enamelled as usual.
If you with the "Deplitation Guilding Technique" are not familar, I can you a description send.
Edmund
Thank you for your response. I would really appreciate it if you could send me a description of the depletion gilding technique.
Thank you again,
MR
Hi Mary Rose,
I have just posted "Guilding and Reticulating Silver" in Metalsmith tab - Notebook
Preparing Sterling-Silver or Silver-alloys for enameling.
Many transparent enamels changing their color and transparency dramatically if they are applied direct onto alloyed silver. The reason is that the enamel reacts with the copper in the alloy. Especially transparent reds and violet changes in a very ugly opaque brown. And many other types of enamel become not as bright and shiny as on a fine-silver surface. This color changing happens with lead-free as well as with lead-bearing enamels.
To prevent this color changing, you must prepare the alloys to get a fine-silver shift. This technique is called: "Depletion gilding“. Do not bump yourself to the word "gilding“. The described technique has nothing to do with gilding.
The technique is very simple.
Heat up the silver work piece to about 700 degree Celsius. You can do it in a kiln or with a torch.
If you work with a torch, heat up the piece until to a dark red.
Remove the flame in order to see, whether the silver surface becomes dark-gray to black.
Let the piece cool down a bit and heat it up again.
Repeat cooling and heating 2-3 times.
The dark layer on the surface is oxidized copper.
Quench the work piece in a pot with water.
After that, place the piece in a pickle-bath. I use a pickle-bath made from 10% Alum-salt and 90% water and a temperature of about 50 degree Celsius.
The dark-gray layer changed in the bath over into a frosty white.
Rinse the work piece in water.
Repeat the process of heating, pickling and rinsing 2-3 times.
To polish the surface, you can use glass-brushes, flex shaft with very soft round steel- or brass-bristle.
Polish under slowly running water so short as possible and without any pressure, because the fine-silver-layer is very thin.
If you use glass-brushes, wear absolutely a dust-mask, also if you work under running water. During the use of the glass-brush small pieces of the fibers could break off. If these in the lung get, it is very unhealthy.
If you heat the piece in a kiln, the process is similar. Heat up until dark red, remove the piece,, let it cool down a bit, and put it into the kiln again. Make this also about three times. All other steps follow as previously described.
The "Depletion Gilding Process" doesn’t solve the usual problems with enameling silver. Many transparent types of enamel need as a first layer a thin shift of very clear silver-flux and a not too high and long firing. Otherwise can change the colors
I could not find a video which shows the depletion gilding process. Only a video about the reticulation process.
Thank you for your response. This is very comprehensive and much appreciated.
MR
Hi, Thank you very much. There is so much information and help on this website.
MR
My friend rolled piece of 925 silver(with surface of fine silver as Edmund described) with glued paper on the top and the result is very similar to the surface of "Reticulated Silver".Looks like waves on the surface.Will post some photos later.
R.
Has anyone sucessfully enameled on retriculated sterling silver?