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Unfortunately, I have not a better photo.
Do you mean such "stones"? The necklace is a mix of real "river stones", and hand-made "stone" made of copper and enamel. The stones with a silver "cigar band" are real. The "stones" that are fitted around with a silver stripe, are "enamel stones." If you interested into the production, I would describe it here.
Edmund
Yes Edmund, Your "stones" are exactly what I am interested in. I would very much like to hear about the steps you have used to make them.
Thank You Marty
Hi Marty,
I need a view days, because I'm at the moment in the hospital. I hope I'm at home next week.
Friendly regards
Edmund
So sorry to hear that you are in the hospital Edmund
....hospitals mean well, but they are not nice places! Hope you are home and recovered soon.
Warmest wishes,
Julie
Hello Marty,
I haven't forgotten what I have promised. But the doctor need more time, than he has thought. At the moment I work on the text. Then I will some enamel samples make. I hope the end of the week it is done.
Friendly regards
Edmund
Pebble-stone chain.
The "enamel stones" are prepared in the same manner as shown in the manuscript: How to dome irregular forms quickly “. You find this manuscript as PDF-file in this forum here:
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In this manuscript you find also a description of the tools and materials you need for this really very simple press forming process.
If you want to create two symmetrical parts (front and back of the "stones"), press firstly from an about 0,3 – 0,5 mm strong, annealed an quenched copper-sheet from the front-side of the die-plate a dome into the cut-out. Then reverse the die-plate and make the second part in the same manner.
If you need a stronger dome, create from a rubber-sheet an "inlay", that is smaller then the out cut of the die-plate. Lay the small rubber-inlay into the copper-sheet depression. Lay onto the rubber-inlay a small anvil or an other small metal-plate of minimum 8-10 mm strongness. Bang with the hammer as strong as you can onto the metal-plate.
If you want a higher dome, you should the work piece prior to that anneal. Then put a second smaller rubber-inlay under the first, and bang again with the hammer.
If the dome higher becomes than the die-plate, put a second plastic-sheet with an a bit larger cut-out, and underlay the first plate with the second.
You can the both halves by soldering or by bezel-setting assemble.
Copper-Soldering is a bit more difficult than silver-soldering, by reason of copper-oxide accumulation. In addition, if you such a soldered "stone" enamelling you must be very careful, for the reason, that the soldering seam come undone. Nevertheless here a short description.
1) With an broadly based marker make a line around the "dome".
2) Saw, with a jewellers saw and saw blades No: 3/0 along the outside of the line, so that you an about 0,5 - 1,0 mm broad supernatant get.
3) If you want, enamelling the inside of both "stone-halves".
4) Filing off the inside of the rim to remove the copper-oxide and possible enamel-leftover.
5) Flux the rims very well with flux-agent and apply on extra strong silver-solder (Working temperature about 770 degree C ~ 1420 F).
6) Fix the both halves with iron binding wire.
7) Drill at least one hole into one side of the bended stone. Otherwise the "stone" can collapse, if it cools down after soldering.
8) Heat up the work piece. Hold the torch-flame especially onto the rim until the solder is molten.
9) File the supernatant rim off.
10) Pickle the stone, neutralizing it and remove all water from the inside of the stone.
11) Ready for enamelling.
I prefer the both domed parts with a bezel to fit. I use a flat fine-silver-band of about 4,0 – 5,0 mm broadness and a thickness from about 0,20 - 0,25 mm.
Therewith the silver rim can not slip if one push it over the sides of the enamelled parts, and therewith that the rim is on both sides of the "Stone" equal, solder a 0,3 –0,5 mm thick round fine-silver-wire into the middle of the flat stripe.
Bend the bezel around at one half of the enameled "stone", mark the right length, cut it and solder the bezel together.
After pickling to remove the flux, put the two half of the stones in the bezel and push both sides of the bezel on.
Serging and polishing the bezel and drill two about 0,8 - 1,0 mm holes on both sides for the string. Finished!!
In the next step follows the texture making
Edmund
Edmund, Thanks for all the info. I particularly like the bezel with the wire.
I have small a clay extruder (like this http://www.cooltools.us/Extruders-s/362.htm)
The extruder pushes clay through a hole cut in a piece of sheet metal. The shape of the hole determines the shape of the extrusion. I am planning to cut some custom shapes, and your double bezel with wire will probably work well. for metal clay or wax injection.
Cheers and Thanks, Marty
Hallo Martin,
that's nice, that you from the first part of the "Stone-Collier" can benefit. Last week I started to make some "Stone-Design"-examples. But allways cropped up other things. So the reverend of the other fraction of my own religion asked me, to restore some enamel tiles from his church-door before eastern. They have vandalized very bad and I must some of them brand new make. Yesterday I finished this work and this morning I brought it the reverend. The mounting makes an other people.
Tomorrow I begin again with the design-samples and I hope this time I can finish it undisturbed.
Here a picture from the beginning of the week.
Friendly regards
Edmund
Hello Martin,
if you make the bezel from Art-clay, you should the support-wire make round. If you it make like a "T" you must in the downstroke of the T cut little triangles, Otherwise you can bend the bezel not around the stone, because the downstroke gets wavy.
Edmund
Enamel stone design.
I have finished the stone-design project. You'll find it in the Attachements below.
Edmund
This is a very fine well done tutorial! Thank you Edmund!
Gabor
Hallo Chris and Gabor,
thank you for your friendly judgements. I hope, that some people can benefit from them. It is such a creative playground.
Edmund
Hi Edmund. Thank you for all the work you have put in to explain the ways you make "stones"
The files and pictures have given me a lot to think about. thanks
marty
Stone Texture Recipes.