I'm trying to enamel on copper. I have a larger backplate and a smaller design I cut out with a jeweler's saw. I tried blue fuse and my soldering torch on a tripod with no luck. I used copper solder to join the two pieces, but they are coming apart after several firings. Anyone have suggestions?

Dear Amy,

It's hard to say what has happened with your work. What is the working temperature of your copper solder?
I use silver solder for components which should later be enamelled. The working temperature of the solder is 770 degrees Celsius. For firing the enamel the firing temperature is about 750 degree Celsius. I don't run in any Problems.

Edmund

Thank you Edmund. I will try using hard solder for silver. I'm firing around 1410 F and the chart shows it flows at 1450 F.

I was using a copper solder. I will try again with hard solder for silver. Can you turn the piece over and enamel the back after its soldered?

I finish at first all soldering, mostly on top a rim or frame to protect the enamel, then onto the back the furnitures for a pin or so. Then I enamel the back, turn over to top and make the cloisonné-wire design then I make the enamel layers on top and fire it with back side down onto a trivet. It is important to use hard silversolder than you do not lose the funitures on the back. Fire only, until the top enamel is smooth and shiny. Not longer!

Thank you Edmund

While not an easy technique to learn I formed a copper pipe around a mandrel that was tapered on the last three inches.  I cut the pipe and then pressed the last three inches together.  I then TIG welded the edges of the copper together using a thin piece of the same copper pipe as my weld material.   I had tried a bronze braising material to brase the copper together.  I had a very difficult time getting the enamel to fuse to the bronze holding the two pieces together.  By using the TIG I had a solid piece of the same material as the two pieces being joined.  Expensive tool (TIG) but then tools are like adult toys for some of us.