You can use Alundum- or Carborundum stones at first to remove the vast bulk  of the copper-scale. Then, to smooth the edge, change over to abrasive-paper grain in the sequence 200, 300, 400 and if necessary finer. You must ever in direction of the edge file, not at any time at right angle to the edge. If you do so, some of the enamel-edge can flake off.

Thank you Edmund for your helpful reply.  I will also take care to file in the direction of the edge.

Mary Rose

Mary Rose, in addition to Edmund's comment: If the edge is visible in the final piece then I burnish the edge with a steel burnisher and then gold plate it galvanically (pen). I'm not sure how long the plating will last finally, however I had it on pieces for several years.

Greetings Gisela

Thank you for your reply.  That is a great idea.  When you say galvanically (pen), is this a special pen?

I was also referring to the dark line of firescale which shows under the enamel close to the edge of the piece.  I there any way to get that out?

Mary Rose

Mary Rose,

1. yes, I was referring to a pen plating system. It is available e.g. from Rio Grande (Midas pen plating system). I'm using one bought many years ago in Germany and it still works well for small surfaces. 

2. As far as I know, to get rid of the dark rim under the enamel  the only way is using abrasive methods as Edmund described. 

Greetings Gisela

Hallo Mary Rose,

It is correct what Gisela says. Grind in a 45 degree angle until the black ring is gone. If then the copper area is a bit too broad, grind it down with a smooth file or abrasive paper. I prefer watertight carborundum paper

Friendly

Edmund

Thank you Gisela.  I will check on the pen plating sysem.

Also, to avoid black line, perhaps better to do fewer firings on piece; perhaps concentrate on opaques with 1 quick firing.

Maybe it has also to do with the edges of the copper itself and how it is punched out.  Better to have the sides straight and not sloping.  I noticed the copper stamps that are not straight across have a tendency to hold the firescale.  Instead of purchasing from Rio or Thompson, better to get a clean line and punch out yourself.

What do you think about this?

Mary Rose

Thank you Edmund:  Maybe it has also to do with the edges of the copper itself and how it is punched out.  Better to have the sides straight and not sloping.  I noticed the copper stamps that are not straight across have a tendency to hold the firescale.  Instead of purchasing from Rio or Thompson, better to get a clean line and punch out yourself.

Also, do fewer firings.  Use more opaques.  What do you think?

Mary Rose

I think it is not the problem whether the edge is sharp angled or a bit round. Important is, that the work piece with enamel is well covered , also at the edges. Some books recommend, to cover the edges with enamel a bit thicker than the remaining surface.
Cover you the work piece by sieving the enamel on or in the wet technique?

Especially in the wet technique it happens very easy, that the edges are thinner covered, than the remaining surface. The reason is, that water on plane surfaces mostly build up a flat dome.

Edmund

Hello Edmund -- thank you for your response and the graphic.

I will be aware of covering the edges, dry or wet.

Mary Rose

Hallo Mary Rose,

The scaling of the edges can not be completely prevented. Here one more tip to reduce the scale.

Fire the work piece not too high and too long. Watch the burning processe.  Once the surface of the enamel is glossy and smooth, remove the WP from the kiln.  

Edmund

www,emailkunst.de

Hello Edmund, thank you for information.  I will be careful not to fire too high or too long.

Mary Rose

Hello Everyone --

Does anyone have success cleaning the edges of copper after enameling pendants, etc.?

Any special files or abrasives to use?

Thank you,

Mary Rose