Steel Preparation and Firing -  Charles Winkel

 

1-     Clean section of steel to be cut for the project with a rag to   remove factory oil and grease.

         Clean front and back as best as possible.

        

2-     Cut out approximate sizes for the project.

 

3-     With a vibrating sander (not a circular sander) using 60-80 grit sandpaper. Sand both sides of the steel until no more black dust is seen. (This is steel and oil being removed). Make least three passes. After each pass clean with a brush and a rag.

 

4-     Draw project with black sharpie onto the steel.

 

5-     Cut out project with:

1. 4 ½” chop saw wheel on an angle grinder.
2. Aviation sheers.
3. Jig saw with a steel cutter blade.

 

6-     Re-Sand the project on both sides. This will sand down the raised edges created by the cut off blade, and other cutting tools. It will also clean the steel for a second time.

 

7-     File all edges and corners round to keep the enamel from pulling back during firing. Edges should be smooth to the touch.

 

8-     Outline all lines with blunted chisels. A light touch is required as not to tear or punch a hole into the steel.

 

9-     Hammer out your project to desired repousse.

 

10-   Place hangers and braces in desired positions with a spot welder

 

11-   Wash project front and back with Comet cleanser (T) and Awesome (T). Wash it twice.  When water rolls off in sheets, the steel is clean. Do not put project under water prier to washing it with the cleaner From this point on, handle the washed project with gloves at all times. DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE HANDS. Wear cotton gloves. Hand oil will affect the enamel.

 

12-   Dry with a hair drier as soon as the project is washed. Do not let project dry on it's own. Rust may form. If this occurs, you must rewash the project to eliminate the rust.

 

13-   Grout coat- Enamel should have the consistency of milk. 25-30 psi

                          A- Place the project on a trivet which is on a lazy susan.

                          B- Spray from a distance of 1 ½ – 2' using a side to side motion at a 45 degrees angle. This will cause the spray to be dry. Back side first.

                          C-Using a sweeping motion (side to side) spray the project in at least 4-5       different directions as you turn the susan. Dry with a hair dryer. This process will be repeated two more times. The final coat should look like lite velvet.

                          D- The previous steps to be repeated on both sides, back side first. This will allow  for an easier transfer to the firing trivet.

                          E- Fire at 1500 degrees for 3 minutes.         

 

14-   BASE COAT-Black/white

         Follow the exact same procedure as the ground coat, but lighter. Back first, then the front Fire at 1320 degrees for 2 minutes.

 

         BLACK COAT-   

         This step is optional. I like to be sure I am using a solid black or white as a beginning coat. One lite coat on front and back. Fire at 1310 degrees for 2 minutes.

 

15-   GRANULAR WHITE COAT-

         Consistency of milk ( dry spray ) spray same as base coat. Back side first if doing 3 D. This is    the only time you will be able to draw in you design. Spray in four different directions. Three coats total, to be dried between each coat. If completed properly you should be able to see a reflection from the black coat. Fire at 1320 degrees for 2 minutes. Remember, if this is a three dimensional project, the back side must be completed before moving to the front.  

 

16-  All firing depends on the outside temperature and humidity. I fire almost all colors at 1310 degrees for 2 minutes. My kiln has bottom elements. The lid raises with a counter balance, with a recovery rate of 5-10 minutes. Temperatures and times may very with different kilns.

                            

John Killmaster Glass om Metal Volume 8 #3 page 53 1989

John Killmaster Glass on Metal Volume 14 #2 1995

 

 

I’m familiar with Thompson’s GC16 and the ground for steel that Ferro makes, but am uncertain what the black or white base coat and the granular white coats are. Can someone enlighten me? Am I correct in assuming the base coat is a liquid form enamel. Where do you get the granular coat?

I know that this is late. The base coat is just black enamel sprayed on top of the ground coat. Ground coat comes out gray, and you want the project to be black. This will allow for darker lines when drawing on the white granular coat. You can apply any color for the base. This will allow for different colored lines.