I have kiln-enameled hundreds of bangles with nearly 100% success. I was discouraged by past instructors who told me enameling bangles wouldn't work. I'm pretty stubborn and rebellious, but determined! The secret to enameling bangles is to spray a light mist with klyrfire and sift the enamel on the back and front at the same time, repeat if necessary,then lay the piece flat down on a firing rack. Care must be taken to handle the bracelet only on the edges.
I have learned how to hold the bangle carefully along the edges, dust the enamel,and gingerly place on the rack. The edges get cleaned in the end, so touching them doesn't matter.
Normally, I do not wait for the enamel powder to dry. I know, that'S something you're not supposed to do, but it works beautifully for me! It can be re-fired with a new coat of enamel if necessary. The edges can be cleaned up with a wet alundum stone or belt sander or left plain.
I have experienced little or no chipping. As long as the enamel is not put on too thickly, it stays put nicely in the kiln. Once in a while I get too overzealous with the enamel powder, and it starts to pool near the bracelet bottom as it fires. In that case, I pull from the 1500 degree kiln after a minute or so, then flip it over on the rack so the enamel drifts back toward the middle.
I have gotten some beautiful effects that way, too! I use 16 gauge copper for plain flat
bangles and 24 gauge (roofing copper) for the anticlastic ones becuase they are very strong with a synclastic ar anticlastic shape.
Jean
http://charmdimsur.etsy.com
http://enamelwarehouse.etsy.com
I have kiln-enameled hundreds of bangles with nearly 100% success. I was discouraged by past instructors who told me enameling bangles wouldn't work. I'm pretty stubborn and rebellious, but determined! The secret to enameling bangles is to spray a light mist with klyrfire and sift the enamel on the back and front at the same time, repeat if necessary,then lay the piece flat down on a firing rack. Care must be taken to handle the bracelet only on the edges.
I have learned how to hold the bangle carefully along the edges, dust the enamel,and gingerly place on the rack. The edges get cleaned in the end, so touching them doesn't matter.
Normally, I do not wait for the enamel powder to dry. I know, that'S something you're not supposed to do, but it works beautifully for me! It can be re-fired with a new coat of enamel if necessary. The edges can be cleaned up with a wet alundum stone or belt sander or left plain.
I have experienced little or no chipping. As long as the enamel is not put on too thickly, it stays put nicely in the kiln. Once in a while I get too overzealous with the enamel powder, and it starts to pool near the bracelet bottom as it fires. In that case, I pull from the 1500 degree kiln after a minute or so, then flip it over on the rack so the enamel drifts back toward the middle.
I have gotten some beautiful effects that way, too! I use 16 gauge copper for plain flat
bangles and 24 gauge (roofing copper) for the anticlastic ones becuase they are very strong with a synclastic ar anticlastic shape.
Jean
http://charmdimsur.etsy.com
http://enamelwarehouse.etsy.com
Jean,
How do you keep the edges from chipping or cracking as a result of wear?
Jean,
How do you keep the edges from chipping or cracking as a result of wear?
Hi Tonya - Believe it or not, I have not experienced any chipping or cracking. I usually wear two or three at a time with no damage.
Jean
Hi Tonya - Believe it or not, I have not experienced any chipping or cracking. I usually wear two or three at a time with no damage.
Jean
I would be very leary about adding any chemical compounds to the top of the enamels, as you don't know what damage they could create to the glass over time. If you read the article on the"Meeting of the Minds" I just recently posted, the Museum curators and conservationists are having a difficult time preserving these ancient enamels because they were coated over and preserved with polyurethanes and other preservatives, which have caused major problems to the enamel.
I would be very leary about adding any chemical compounds to the top of the enamels, as you don't know what damage they could create to the glass over time. If you read the article on the"Meeting of the Minds" I just recently posted, the Museum curators and conservationists are having a difficult time preserving these ancient enamels because they were coated over and preserved with polyurethanes and other preservatives, which have caused major problems to the enamel.
I would still give it a try, it may work wonderful, or may be horrible, but I think its a good experiment. Old enamels may have been coated with something much different than resins they use now a days that are jewelry grade resins. It could be a whole different senario on an experiment. What do we have to loose. I will give it a try. There are many issues, yellowing of the resin, pulling of the enamels, expansion issues. But I have learned many things with experiments. So when I do some I will upload my results. Thanks.
I would still give it a try, it may work wonderful, or may be horrible, but I think its a good experiment. Old enamels may have been coated with something much different than resins they use now a days that are jewelry grade resins. It could be a whole different senario on an experiment. What do we have to loose. I will give it a try. There are many issues, yellowing of the resin, pulling of the enamels, expansion issues. But I have learned many things with experiments. So when I do some I will upload my results. Thanks.