[Note: The tutorial is the first reference at the bottom of the discussion.]
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I use this set-up for firing beads using copper tubing as the core.Â
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I have used copper tubing from both a jewelry supplier and a hardware store. I use a jewelers saw and tube cutter to cut smaller pieces for the bead core.
Â
A large ceramic tile serves as the base of my set-up and covers 90% of my table space.
Ceramic tiles are a great and inexpensive way to protect your table surface and prevent fires.
(Tile from Home Depot, approximately $5 - $10.)
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I mounted a smaller ceramic tile on a lazy susan ball bearing part. This tile will be used to hold the rows of enamel color I will be using. (Tile and lazy susan ball bearing part are from Home Depot, $0.50 and $5 respectively).  When I am using more than one color of enamel, I place each enamel color along one of the 4 edges. The lazy susan allows you to quickly and easily rotate the surface to reach all colors during the process of beadmaking. The lazy susan sits atop a silicone trivet to prevent sliding and allow it to be portable.
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I have a modified nail mounted in a tool handle containing a collet to serve as the bead mandrel. A lampworking mandrel could be used as well. An adjustable handle, such as one with a collet, allows me to use different diameter nails or mandrels based on the tubing diameter. For safety, I handle the bead mandrel while wearing a heat resistant glove.Â
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I use a propane torch with a pencil torch hose resting in a torch holder (found at Harbor
Freight for $10 or less). I have had trouble finding the torch hoses locally; and, Amazon had been
my best source for these. I use the Bernzomatic torch hoses (link: http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-19199-019199-Hose-Torch/dp/B0006V6NKY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1283318456&sr=8-1; and, they have held up for a couple of years, so far; but it appears that they may have been discontinued. Here is an alternative (I have no experience with it):http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT560C-Self-Lighting-Tradesman-Regulated/dp/B000I1QATQ/ref=dp_cp_ob_indust_title_2. To deal with the torch fumes, I use a smoke and fume absorber (the black device at the back of the table).
Â
Lastly, for depositing the hot beads upon completion, I use vermiculite in a glass/ceramic bowl orÂ
crucible which is kept warm on a candle warmer and self-locking tweezers to remove the bead from the mandrel. I like Pam East's crock post idea for times when I am producing a lot of beads. There is a silicone mat underneath the candle warmer to absorb any residual heat and to protect the table surface.
The link referenced, below, has a great tutorial on creating enamel beads and shows some finished
examples at the end. Else and Pam offer some alternatives to the tools I use.Â
References:
1. http://www.enamelandtiffany.com/Beads/Torch-fired_beads.html
 by Else Quanjer,an enamelist from the Netherlands. The video was originally done in Dutch; so, in the English verison the voice has been replaced by music and English sub-titles.
Â
2. Enameling on Metal Clay, by Pam East (pages 85 & 86)
[Note: The tutorial is the first reference at the bottom of the discussion.]
Â
I use this set-up for firing beads using copper tubing as the core.Â
Â
I have used copper tubing from both a jewelry supplier and a hardware store. I use a jewelers saw and tube cutter to cut smaller pieces for the bead core.
Â
A large ceramic tile serves as the base of my set-up and covers 90% of my table space.
Ceramic tiles are a great and inexpensive way to protect your table surface and prevent fires.
(Tile from Home Depot, approximately $5 - $10.)
Â
I mounted a smaller ceramic tile on a lazy susan ball bearing part. This tile will be used to hold the rows of enamel color I will be using. (Tile and lazy susan ball bearing part are from Home Depot, $0.50 and $5 respectively).  When I am using more than one color of enamel, I place each enamel color along one of the 4 edges. The lazy susan allows you to quickly and easily rotate the surface to reach all colors during the process of beadmaking. The lazy susan sits atop a silicone trivet to prevent sliding and allow it to be portable.
Â
I have a modified nail mounted in a tool handle containing a collet to serve as the bead mandrel. A lampworking mandrel could be used as well. An adjustable handle, such as one with a collet, allows me to use different diameter nails or mandrels based on the tubing diameter. For safety, I handle the bead mandrel while wearing a heat resistant glove.Â
Â
I use a propane torch with a pencil torch hose resting in a torch holder (found at Harbor
Freight for $10 or less). I have had trouble finding the torch hoses locally; and, Amazon had been
my best source for these. I use the Bernzomatic torch hoses (link: http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-19199-019199-Hose-Torch/dp/B0006V6NKY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1283318456&sr=8-1; and, they have held up for a couple of years, so far; but it appears that they may have been discontinued. Here is an alternative (I have no experience with it):http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT560C-Self-Lighting-Tradesman-Regulated/dp/B000I1QATQ/ref=dp_cp_ob_indust_title_2. To deal with the torch fumes, I use a smoke and fume absorber (the black device at the back of the table).
Â
Lastly, for depositing the hot beads upon completion, I use vermiculite in a glass/ceramic bowl orÂ
crucible which is kept warm on a candle warmer and self-locking tweezers to remove the bead from the mandrel. I like Pam East's crock post idea for times when I am producing a lot of beads. There is a silicone mat underneath the candle warmer to absorb any residual heat and to protect the table surface.
The link referenced, below, has a great tutorial on creating enamel beads and shows some finished
examples at the end. Else and Pam offer some alternatives to the tools I use.Â
References:
1. http://www.enamelandtiffany.com/Beads/Torch-fired_beads.html
 by Else Quanjer,an enamelist from the Netherlands. The video was originally done in Dutch; so, in the English verison the voice has been replaced by music and English sub-titles.
Â
2. Enameling on Metal Clay, by Pam East (pages 85 & 86)