• Member Login
  • Join
    Loading ...
View All Updates Mark All Read
  • Home
  • About Us
  • Members
  • Artist Albums
    • Browse Albums
  • Blogs
    • Browse Entries
  • Chat
  • Forums
  • Events
    • Upcoming Events
    • Past Events
  • Groups
    • Browse Groups
  • Videos
    • Browse Videos
  • Resources
  • Library
  • Classifieds

Grainsbanner

  • Profile Type: Regular Member
  • Profile Views: 2,095 views
  • Friends: 1 friend
  • Last Update: September 3, 2018
  • Last Login: September 3, 2018
  • Joined: November 23, 2014
  • Member Level: Default Level
  • Updates
  • Info
  • Friends(1)
  • Forum Posts(6)

Updates

The post was not added to the feed. Please check your privacy settings.
  • Charles Winkel
    Charles Winkel: Clean it the same way you would clean cold rolled. GC-16 will work fine if the cleaning was performed the same way as cold. The steel your using will be more brittle then cold. Take care forming because it will tear easer then cold. It hasn't been...  moreClean it the same way you would clean cold rolled. GC-16 will work fine if the cleaning was performed the same way as cold. The steel your using will be more brittle then cold. Take care forming because it will tear easer then cold. It hasn't been tempered as cold. It wall work fine. I use 20 and 22 gage it better for forming. I use 18 gage foe flat work It's extremely hard to form, and hard an the arm shoulder and wrest due to how hard you will have hammer to form the steel. But to answer you question. Clean the steel as to my instructions and you will not have trouble with GC-16.  less
    August 30, 2018
    • Debra Montgomery likes this.
    • Charles Winkel
      Debra Montgomery Hi! Thanks for your reply! Long story short, this job was delayed and I did not get any time to do any practice pieces or anything before I just needed to get this job finished. I ended up using 10 ga steel - I should have noted that in my previous...  moreHi! Thanks for your reply! Long story short, this job was delayed and I did not get any time to do any practice pieces or anything before I just needed to get this job finished. I ended up using 10 ga steel - I should have noted that in my previous post. I think if I am going to continue to use thicker steel like this I need to learn how to enamel using the forge as well as the smaller or thinner metal in the kiln. I ultimately decided this time to change course on the coloration of the leaves on this project because I feel like I need to get more instruction and...    less
      • September 1, 2018
      • -
      • Report
    • Charles Winkel
      Charles Winkel I use 18 gage and larger for back plate only. The steel is to hard to form. Forget about trying to form 10 gage. You can purchase a sheet of steel 4' X 10' for $85.00. I have cut into 2' sections for easer handling. A forge is to hot for this kind of...  moreI use 18 gage and larger for back plate only. The steel is to hard to form. Forget about trying to form 10 gage. You can purchase a sheet of steel 4' X 10' for $85.00. I have cut into 2' sections for easer handling. A forge is to hot for this kind of steel. It will melt it faster then you can blow your nose. Depending on you projects should determine the size of kiln you should get. I built mine some 20-25 years ago. I just replaced all my elements. Mine takes 8 elements and cost me $80.00 dollars each. A lot more then my original cost. Building your own might be a...    less
      • September 3, 2018
      • -
      • Report
    • Charles Winkel
      Debra Montgomery Hi - thanks again for your input. I lucked out and was able to pick up an older Vcella kiln through Judy Stone. It’s a big one with a 24” x 24” opening. All we had to do was refresh the wiring and it works great so far! The material I have...  moreHi - thanks again for your input. I lucked out and was able to pick up an older Vcella kiln through Judy Stone. It’s a big one with a 24” x 24” opening. All we had to do was refresh the wiring and it works great so far! The material I have been working with is almost 1/8” thick, which is what I made the leaves out of. I primarily work with 32 oz and 48 oz copper for the Copper bowls and Repousse work I do. I’m hoping, going forward, to continue to use the thicker forge-able steel because that’s a big element in the type of metal work I do. My...    less
      • September 3, 2018
      • -
      • Report
  • Debra Montgomery
    Debra Montgomery Enameling on Hot rolled steel-
    I forgot about using cold rolled steel. I have hot rolled 10ga steel leaves all formed and cleaned and then realized my mistake. Is there any way to make hot rolled work? Is using the ground coat GC-16 sufficient or is...  more
    Enameling on Hot rolled steel-
    I forgot about using cold rolled steel. I have hot rolled 10ga steel leaves all formed and cleaned and then realized my mistake. Is there any way to make hot rolled work? Is using the ground coat GC-16 sufficient or is there any way at all to just use the liquid enamel color with one firing and leave it at that?
    One of my concerns is if I have to now use ground coat then I will have to use a base coat before the color and then fire the color - so three firings. Will that cause another problem related to scale?
    Please note that these leaves have been heated in a forge, lightly formed and the top surface that will get the enamel has been ground/sanded down to a clean bright silver surface with no visible scale. Will this make a difference?
    Thanks in advance  less
    August 28, 2018 - edited
  • Charles Winkel
    Charles Winkel is now friends with Debra Montgomery.
    March 24, 2017
  • Debra Montgomery
    Debra Montgomery → Trish White:

    Thanks for the approval, Trish!  I just got back from Janly Jaggard's workshop in Richmond last week and am pretty excited on the possibilities of enameling with the metal work I already do, particularly torch firing and enamel on steel.  Looking

    ...  more

    Thanks for the approval, Trish!  I just got back from Janly Jaggard's workshop in Richmond last week and am pretty excited on the possibilities of enameling with the metal work I already do, particularly torch firing and enamel on steel.  Looking forward to getting started on some things! 

     
    November 24, 2014
View More
Loading ...

Info

Personal Information

  • First Name Debra
  • Last Name Montgomery

Contact Information

  • Are you an Enamel Artist, Student Or Metalsmith Metalsmith
  • What Best Describes Your Enameling Style? Beginner
  • Country Of Origin USA

Friends

  • Charles Winkel my site. enamelsbycharles.com
Previous
Next

Forum Posts

  • April 25, 2017 3:30 PM EDT
    in the topic QUESTIONS ABOUT STEEL ENAMELING in the forum General Discussions

    Hi again:

    I was planning on using 18 ga. low carbon steel for the leaves on this project.  Regarding a counter enamel, should I just plan on counter enameling to avoid any potential problems with movement of the steel and glass coming off or is this thick enough for that to not be a problem.  

    The leaves will be shaped a little bit, not just flat.  

    Thanks -

     

    Debra

  • April 5, 2017 3:20 PM EDT
    in the topic QUESTIONS ABOUT STEEL ENAMELING in the forum General Discussions
    Hi John:

    Thanks for your reply. Is that plumbers Goop the stuff they sell called Amazing GOOP that you find at most hardware stores? Also - when you mention fire scale getting into the piece - are you referring to it simply landing in the glass and aesthetically ruining it or will any scale undermine the ground coat and enamel already in place?
  • March 23, 2017 2:17 PM EDT
    in the topic QUESTIONS ABOUT STEEL ENAMELING in the forum General Discussions
    One more quick question- since the glass is fired on using a heat process - how would the welding heat - which would not be getting the metal red hot - affect the glass? I would be leaving up to 1 inch of a stem in enameled for welding.
  • March 23, 2017 2:13 PM EDT
    in the topic QUESTIONS ABOUT STEEL ENAMELING in the forum General Discussions
    Hi Charles:

    Thanks so much for your reply!

    So as an alternative to welding the leaves, I could consider steel rivets. We would use an air hammer for these types of rivets. I can do some experimenting with both to see how it works.

    This sculpture will be outside so would want to be sure to get a very good tack weld or find an alternative way to attach for long term reliability.

    Will still have to leave a bit of a tab that is not covered in glass for either approach in attachment.

    The rest of the steel on the tree will be coated in a patina coloration sealed with a two part polyurethane clear coat made specifically for outdoor use. The tabs non enameled tabs will have this coating as well once in place.

    As far as long term- if some rust does develop - can it get under the enamel and ground coat and cause it to release or will it be okay?

    I think I saw somewhere also regarding sanding, not to use a round sander like on a grinder but a flat sander like you would use for wood - is that correct and if so, why is that?

    Thanks - Debra
  • March 23, 2017 2:13 PM EDT
    in the topic QUESTIONS ABOUT STEEL ENAMELING in the forum General Discussions
    Hi Charles:

    Thanks so much for your reply!

    So as an alternative to welding the leaves, I could consider steel rivets. We would use an air hammer for these types of rivets. I can do some experimenting with both to see how it works.

    This sculpture will be outside so would want to be sure to get a very good tack weld or find an alternative way to attach for long term reliability.

    Will still have to leave a bit of a tab that is not covered in glass for either approach in attachment.

    The rest of the steel on the tree will be coated in a patina coloration sealed with a two part polyurethane clear coat made specifically for outdoor use. The tabs non enameled tabs will have this coating as well once in place.

    As far as long term- if some rust does develop - can it get under the enamel and ground coat and cause it to release or will it be okay?

    I think I saw somewhere also regarding sanding, not to use a round sander like on a grinder but a flat sander like you would use for wood - is that correct and if so, why is that?

    Thanks - Debra
Previous
Next
Copyright ©2022  -  Privacy  -  Terms of Service  -  Contact