Wellendorff Rings

    • 1 posts
    February 8, 2014 8:41 AM EST

    Catherine, what an interesting project! Did you notice that the Wellendorff rings have "cold enamel", not glass enamels? This information is under Details on the item pages. Might explain why it doesn't crack!

    • 2 posts
    February 8, 2014 10:53 AM EST

    Thanks for the heads up, Candy - I just didn't dig deep enough. When I was talking to the jeweller he was horrified at my suggestion that they might be using plastic (*cold enamel*) He was so impressed with their name (and price range) that he didn't believe it was possible. I am also dismayed that such a prestigious company would use such inferior materials. It shows how little people know about enamel...

    • 1 posts
    February 8, 2014 11:49 AM EST

    The jeweler didn't know it was "cold enamel" (plastic)? That's very strange. I guess he didn't do any enameling. It certainly pays to look into these things and take nothing for granted. I didn't find prices on the website but I'll take your word for how expensive they are. It also shows how right real enamelists are to take exception to the term "cold enamel"!

    • 2 posts
    February 8, 2014 3:21 PM EST

    Well - to give him the benefit of the doubt I don't think he has seen the rings in person. I believe it was the customer that brought them to his attention.  He has done some enamelling - but many years ago. at least it was enough to let him know how difficult such a project might be! I wonder if the customer will want real enamel on their ring - of if they will prefer plastic just because that's the way the company they admire does it. Gives a whole new meaning to the adjective "authentic" (-;

    • 1 posts
    February 8, 2014 3:46 PM EST

    You are right! What is "authentic"? The rings present another problem:  the bands on the rings rotate and their fit on the main structure may be compromised by the heat of enameling the bands. Sounds like a pretty problem in logistics. Thanks for a little mental gymnastics!

    • 2 posts
    February 8, 2014 7:04 PM EST

    Yes - but I am thinking that that would also provide some protection against cracking... it is protected on both sides by a fixed channel, and the part that goes on and off the finger would not be connected...

    Just have to take into consideration the slight expansion of the piece when enamelled. It wouldn't be much - I am thinking 2 firings max. Using 325 mesh only to minimize bubbles and maximize clarity. One to get a good layer, then sand and fire again. Should change size much in that time (-;

    • 1 posts
    February 9, 2014 11:21 AM EST

    Sounds like a good plan. Hope you'll post photos of the ring as you go along!

    • 3 posts
    February 9, 2014 5:27 PM EST

    It seems to  me that there are at least three different kinds of cold enamel available:

    1. the one available for quite a long time and which just dries like a lacquer. Only few colors

    2. the one available at hobby stores and cures in a household oven (160 degree Celsius), more colors

    3. the newest one curing with UV-light, many colors.

    No 3 was developed based on dental material used by dentists to to fill holes in teeth, it is ceramic based. Colors can be mixed. I believe that this is what Wellendorf uses.

    • 2 posts
    February 9, 2014 7:17 PM EST

    There is another kind which is like an epoxy and has two parts, the colour and a hardener, that has been used in the jewellery insdustry for a number of years... I assumed that was what they are using. Do you have any reason to believe that the UV kind is what Wellendorff uses - or are you guessing? Like me! (-;

    I don't imagine that they are likely to tell us, but I might write and ask.

    • 3 posts
    February 10, 2014 11:34 AM EST

    Cathy, I was guessing, and I assume you are right. I dug a little deeper: on their English webpage is a press statement (a report from the fair 'Basel World') where it says they are using a cold enamel which is heated to 170 degrees Celsius. 

    The UV-curing material might be an option to consider if true enameling would prove not feasible. The brand name is 'Colorit' . And there is a book available on this material from the German Goldsmith Magazine (Praktikum Goldschmieden Band 11), it has both German and English texts. Colorit was developed to give color to Platinum which is very difficult to enamel. 

    I hope this helps a little.

    Gisela

    • 2 posts
    February 7, 2014 5:07 PM EST
    Does anyone know anything about this company?

    I have been approached by a jeweller to work with them and a client who wants a ring of this style - but their own design.

    Whenever anyone approaches me about enamelling a ring, I always try to talk them out of it because I can't imagine a ring NOT cracking after a couple of years of wear and use - and I don't like making things that don't last. I can't imagine how a company like this that charges $10,000 for a ring can have them cracking after a couple of years - but I also can't imagine them not cracking with normal daily use!

    Upon reading about them - I find that the rings are made of separate parts that move, so now I am thinking that the part that is enamelled is separate from the part that fits over the finger and that this (plus heavy channels on the top and bottom) would indeed protect the enamelled part from cracking.

    Apparently this customer has deep pockets - so I can ask for what I like. Since they will likely want a transparent colour, I have said that the part that is to be enamelled needs to be made of green gold, and that it can be plated with red (or white) gold after. 

    Has anyone tried enamelling white gold? I have tried red gold and I know what a nightmare that was. I did it in the end - but I couldn't get transparency.

    Any thoughts?

    Does anyone know what kind of enamel they use? Soyer perhaps?