Torch Firing & Tutorials » Discussions

Enamel Beadmaking Set-up and Video Tutorial

• Tonya Powell

  

  Member
   

  September 1, 2010

  [Note: The tutorial is the first reference at the bottom of the discussion.]

   

  I use this set-up for firing beads using copper tubing as the core. 

  

   

  I have used copper tubing from both a jewelry supplier and a hardware store.  I use a jewelers saw and tube cutter to cut smaller pieces for the bead core.

   

  A large ceramic tile serves as the base of my set-up and covers 90% of my table space.
  Ceramic tiles are a great and inexpensive way to protect your table surface and prevent fires.
  (Tile from Home Depot, approximately $5 - $10.)

   

  I mounted a smaller ceramic tile on a lazy susan ball bearing part.  This tile will be used to hold the rows of enamel color I will be using.  (Tile and lazy susan ball bearing part are from Home Depot, $0.50 and $5 respectively).  When I am using more than one color of enamel, I place each enamel color along one of the 4 edges.  The lazy susan allows you to quickly and easily rotate the surface to reach all colors during the process of beadmaking.  The lazy susan sits atop a silicone trivet to prevent sliding and allow it to be portable.

  

   

  I have a modified nail mounted in a tool handle containing a collet to serve as the bead mandrel.  A lampworking mandrel could be used as well.  An adjustable handle, such as one with a collet, allows me to use different diameter nails or mandrels based on the tubing diameter. For safety, I handle the bead mandrel while wearing a heat resistant glove. 

  

   

  I use a propane torch with a pencil torch hose resting in a torch holder (found at Harbor
  Freight for $10 or less).  I have had trouble finding the torch hoses locally; and, Amazon had been
  my best source for these.  I use the Bernzomatic torch hoses (link: http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-19199-019199-Hose-Torch/dp/B0006V6NKY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1283318456&sr=8-1; and, they have held up for a couple of years, so far; but it appears that they may have been discontinued.  Here is an alternative (I have no experience with it):http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT560C-Self-Lighting-Tradesman-Regulated/dp/B000I1QATQ/ref=dp_cp_ob_indust_title_2.  To deal with the torch fumes, I use a smoke and fume absorber (the black device at the back of the table).

   

  Lastly, for depositing the hot beads upon completion, I use vermiculite in a glass/ceramic bowl or 
  crucible which is kept warm on a candle warmer and self-locking tweezers to remove the bead from the mandrel.  I like Pam East's crock post idea for times when I am producing a lot of beads.  There is a silicone mat underneath the candle warmer to absorb any residual heat and to protect the table surface.

  

  
  The link referenced, below, has a great tutorial on creating enamel beads and shows some finished
  examples at the end.  Else and Pam offer some alternatives to the tools I use. 

  
  References:
  1. http://www.enamelandtiffany.com/Beads/Torch-fired_beads.html">http://www.enamelandtiffany.com/Beads/Torch-fired_beads.html
   by Else Quanjer,an enamelist from the Netherlands.  The video was originally done in Dutch; so, in the English verison the voice has been replaced by music and English sub-titles.

   

  2.  Enameling on Metal Clay, by Pam East (pages 85 & 86)

  [Note: The tutorial is the first reference at the bottom of the discussion.]

   

  I use this set-up for firing beads using copper tubing as the core. 

  

   

  I have used copper tubing from both a jewelry supplier and a hardware store.  I use a jewelers saw and tube cutter to cut smaller pieces for the bead core.

   

  A large ceramic tile serves as the base of my set-up and covers 90% of my table space.
  Ceramic tiles are a great and inexpensive way to protect your table surface and prevent fires.
  (Tile from Home Depot, approximately $5 - $10.)

   

  I mounted a smaller ceramic tile on a lazy susan ball bearing part.  This tile will be used to hold the rows of enamel color I will be using.  (Tile and lazy susan ball bearing part are from Home Depot, $0.50 and $5 respectively).  When I am using more than one color of enamel, I place each enamel color along one of the 4 edges.  The lazy susan allows you to quickly and easily rotate the surface to reach all colors during the process of beadmaking.  The lazy susan sits atop a silicone trivet to prevent sliding and allow it to be portable.

  

   

  I have a modified nail mounted in a tool handle containing a collet to serve as the bead mandrel.  A lampworking mandrel could be used as well.  An adjustable handle, such as one with a collet, allows me to use different diameter nails or mandrels based on the tubing diameter. For safety, I handle the bead mandrel while wearing a heat resistant glove. 

  

   

  I use a propane torch with a pencil torch hose resting in a torch holder (found at Harbor
  Freight for $10 or less).  I have had trouble finding the torch hoses locally; and, Amazon had been
  my best source for these.  I use the Bernzomatic torch hoses (link: http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-19199-019199-Hose-Torch/dp/B0006V6NKY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1283318456&sr=8-1; and, they have held up for a couple of years, so far; but it appears that they may have been discontinued.  Here is an alternative (I have no experience with it):http://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT560C-Self-Lighting-Tradesman-Regulated/dp/B000I1QATQ/ref=dp_cp_ob_indust_title_2.  To deal with the torch fumes, I use a smoke and fume absorber (the black device at the back of the table).

   

  Lastly, for depositing the hot beads upon completion, I use vermiculite in a glass/ceramic bowl or 
  crucible which is kept warm on a candle warmer and self-locking tweezers to remove the bead from the mandrel.  I like Pam East's crock post idea for times when I am producing a lot of beads.  There is a silicone mat underneath the candle warmer to absorb any residual heat and to protect the table surface.

  

  
  The link referenced, below, has a great tutorial on creating enamel beads and shows some finished
  examples at the end.  Else and Pam offer some alternatives to the tools I use. 

  
  References:
  1. http://www.enamelandtiffany.com/Beads/Torch-fired_beads.html
   by Else Quanjer,an enamelist from the Netherlands.  The video was originally done in Dutch; so, in the English verison the voice has been replaced by music and English sub-titles.

   

  2.  Enameling on Metal Clay, by Pam East (pages 85 & 86)

• Trish White

  

  Leader
   

  September 1, 2010

  Hi Tonya,
  
  How do you prevent the vermiculite from melting on the enamel beads?

  Hi Tonya, How do you prevent the vermiculite from melting on the enamel beads?
• Tonya Powell

  

  Member
   

  September 1, 2010

  Hi Trish,
  Prior to immersing the bead in the vermiculite, the glow emmitted by the hot bead must be completely dissipated. This is an indication that the bead is cool enough to be prevent vermiculite particles from sticking to it and distorting the enamel finish.
  
  Vermiculite itself is a clay mineral that expands as it is heated. When heated to 572 degrees F, vermiculite actually becomes a heat insulator (just like a fiber blanket, which can also be used for cooling your beads). Vermiculite has been used in thermal power units at temperatures of up to 2102 degrees F without melting. Being a clay mineral, I am not aware that vermiculite can melt.
  
  Per my reading from various sources, there has been an ongoing debate in the lamp/glass working community as to whether heating the vermiculite is required? Based on the information in the previous paragraph, I have stuck with heating the vermiculite to leverage the heat insulating effect to ensure the bead cools slowly enough (and this is where heating in a crock pot is may be the best method to achieve the insulation temperature more consistently and efficiently).
  
  Tonya

  Hi Trish, Prior to immersing the bead in the vermiculite, the glow emmitted by the hot bead must be completely dissipated. This is an indication that the bead is cool enough to be prevent vermiculite particles from sticking to it and distorting the enamel finish. Vermiculite itself is a clay mineral that expands as it is heated. When heated to 572 degrees F, vermiculite actually becomes a heat insulator (just like a fiber blanket, which can also be used for cooling your beads). Vermiculite has been used in thermal power units at temperatures of up to 2102 degrees F without melting. Being a clay mineral, I am not aware that vermiculite can melt. Per my reading from various sources, there has been an ongoing debate in the lamp/glass working community as to whether heating the vermiculite is required? Based on the information in the previous paragraph, I have stuck with heating the vermiculite to leverage the heat insulating effect to ensure the bead cools slowly enough (and this is where heating in a crock pot is may be the best method to achieve the insulation temperature more consistently and efficiently). Tonya
• monika

  

  Member
   

  September 2, 2010

  Thank you for all the great info and the tutorial !!! Monika

  Thank you for all the great info and the tutorial !!! Monika
• Tonya Powell

  

  Member
   

  September 2, 2010

  Monika,
  You are welcome!
  
  Tonya

  Monika, You are welcome! Tonya